Paper piecing is easy and fun, but even experienced paper piecers find that keeping
the fabric pieces properly aligned on the underside of the foundation can be a bit
tricky at times. Try these simple ways to keep those little pieces of fabric under
control:
- Temporarily hold the first fabric piece to the foundation with a straight pin or
a tiny dab of glue stick.
- Press before you sew - what I think of as "press basting." Place the next piece of
fabric to be sewn into position (check alignment by holding the foundation up to
a strong light). Then press the newly positioned fabric piece with an iron (cotton
setting, NO STEAM!) before sewing. The pressure and heat of the iron makes the cotton
fibers "stick" just enough to help keep the pieces from slipping when turning the
foundation over and during sewing. For me, this one simple step has virtually eliminated
those nasty slipped pieces that must be ripped out and re-sewn.
- When you use a wooden iron instead of an electric one while piecing, press the foundation
and fabric pieces firmly against a table or other hard surface with your wooden iron
(alternatively, you can use your fingernail to “press” the fold) - it does work,
but it's not quite as effective as a regular iron.
- Of course you press the seam after you flip a newly-sewn fabric piece open. But pieces
(especially large pieces) don't stay put to my satisfaction without pinning them
open to the foundation before sewing the next piece. My favorite pins are the very
thin Swiss Iris pins - their thinness causes much less of a pinned "bubble" or distortion
than other dressmaker pins.
"How do you sew multiple units together without slipping when they're still backed
with paper?" you ask. "I've placed the two pieces together and carefully aligned
the end points of the seam with a pin stabbed through each end, and pinned along
the entire edge. But I still have problems getting the seam sewn accurately!"
First, finish sewing the individual unit properly. After stitching the entire foundation
pieced unit (or block), press it well from the wrong side -- lots of pressure, no
steam, and no back and forth movement. (Use a press cloth if the iron's heat reacts
with the foundation's ink.)
Stitch around the unit or block about 1/8" into the seam allowance. This holds those
edge pieces in place until the unit or block is sewn to other units or blocks. (I
use a basting stitch which I unpick when removing the papers; others prefer to use
a regular FPP stitch length instead -- choose whichever is easiest for you.) Trim
the outside seam allowance to 1/4". Press the unit again from the back to make it
as flat as possible.
Then try the tips below -- you may prefer one method in one situation (such as joining
two small half-square triangle units) and maybe a combination of methods for another
situation (such as joining two oddly shaped units with lots of seams to sew over).
- Use plastic-coated paper clips instead of (or in addition to) pins to hold the seam
edges in place, removing them as you slowly sew the seam. If you prefer pinning,
try switching to the ultra-thin Swiss Iris pins for the smoothest possible pinned
edges.
- In addition to securing the edges of the two units to be sewn, pin them together
about 3/4 - 1" below and parallel with the seam line, out of the way of the presser
foot (so you don't have to remove them until after the seam is sewn). This helps
stabilize things especially when your foundation pieced units are rather large.
- Hand or machine-baste the seam first. Check your work, and when you're satisfied,
resew the seam with your usual FPP stitch length. It's much easier to rip out a bit
of basting than 18 stitches to the inch!
- Sew the seam with your walking foot.
- Begin sewing in the middle of the seam and sew to the end. Remove the piece from
the machine, turn it over and sew the rest of the seam from the middle outwards,
overlapping the stitching a bit. This works well for sewing over multiple seam intersections,
or securing a critical match point before sewing the rest of the seam.
- Use tape to hold the pieces in position -- over the top of the seam edge and even
around the sides of the pieces so that the whole thing is secure. A tape with a weak
adhesive is best, so that no sticky stuff gums up your needle. Try some of that pink
hairsetting tape with the pinked edges -- it's great for times you want a bit of
hold without glue (even if you never set your hair!).
- Apply a bit of water-soluble glue stick or basting glue (e.g. Roxanne's) in the seam
allowances if you're really having troubles holding things in place, and plan on
washing the finished project. The glue vanishes in the wash.
Several of these tips are from members of The Foundation Piecer's quiltlist (many
thanks to them!). This lively and generous group of quilters enjoys foundation piecing
and shares foundation piecing tips, project ideas, and quilting successes (and a
few failures!) via email.